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Like a toque-wearing Moses, Andre Rochat parted the waves of Las Vegas budget buffets in 1980, taking the cuisine of his native France to the culinary desert. Rochat offers ever since included Andre's in the Monte Carlo and Alizé at the Palms. However his provincially designed flagship in a 1930s-era downtown house-with four cozy dining rooms, each representing a different French location and ornamented with a lot of wood, tapestries, and also soft lighting-is still going strong, owing simply to the food list which includes both equally traditional French meals such as coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a wine-enriched cream sauce) and many with current twists, like grilled quail with figs and prosciutto. Entrée prices start in the mid-30s.

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